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Rock Climbing


Double Loop Knots



Two loops are often more secure than a single loop. Therefore these Double Loop Knots are often used in rescue operation. Especially when hoisting or lowering an injured person or a large or heavy object. A Double Loop Knot can also be used as a sling, when lifting a person. If you need to learn one Double Loop Knot then it is recommended to learn the Double Alpine Butterfly. BR>
The Remaining Breaking Strength of a rope after the particular knot has been tied, is given for each knot outlined here below.

Bowline on the Bight

Remaining Breaking Strength = 60%
This is a double-loop variation on the basic Bowline. This knot has a long track record of use in rescue situations, so it is considered by many sailors and rescue workers to be a strong enough knot to be used when lives are at stake.

How to Tie the Bowline on the Bight
Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight

  1. First double the rope to create a "bight" in the rope (an open loop). Then create a small loop in the bight (the doubled rope) just like you would for a basic Bowline, and bring the end of the bight through the small loop. This creates two big loops which hang below the knot.
  2. Now open up the end of the bight a little bit and bring it back down over the two main loops, and then continue bringing the end of the bight around behind the two main loops and up to the other side of the small initial loop.
  3. Dress and set the knot.

Double Figure-Eight Loop

Remaining Breaking Strength = 82%
This knot is sometimes used as a rope method of bringing two anchor points down to one, but has not been superseded by the use of slings.

How to Tie the Double Figure of 8 Loop
Bowline on a Bight Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop

  1. Start with a "slipped" Figure-Eight Loop, which creates two loops where there would normally have been only one loop.
  2. Then you slightly open up the end of the "bight", the doubled rope, and pass it all the way around the two main loops and over the knot.
  3. Dress and set the knot

Double Alpine Butterfly

The Double Alpine Butterfly seems to have all of the advantages and disadvantages of the Alpine Butterfly, except that it can't easily be made in such a way that you are able to pass the two main loops around an object while you are tying the knot. However, I have yet to find an instance where this would be a necessity.

How to Tie the Double Alpine Butterfly
Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop Double Alpine Butterfly Loop

  1. To tie this knot, first you begin tying the normal Alpine Butterfly.
  2. Then you push two bights through.
  3. The two bights that you pushed through the loop will become the two main loops of this double-loop knot.
  4. Dress the knot before continuing in order to change the sizes of the loops fairly easily.
  5. Take the bight (the doubled rope) which is hanging down at the bottom and bring it up and over the two main loops.
  6. Finally bring that bight all the way around until it lays on top of the dressed knot, and then finish dressing the knot.




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