Five Essential Knots
As there are more than 3900 knots recorded, it might take you a lifetime
to know all the knots by heart. Fortunately, you can safely climb using only five simple knots.
The longer you climb, you will probably add 30 or so more specialized knots to your
knowledge, but the ones you absolutely must know are the every-day knots that are easy to tie,
difficult to forget, and easy to check with a visual inspection.
The Figure of Eight Knot
If you need to learn one knot, then it should be the Figure of Eight knot.
There are generally two methods to use the Figure of Eight Knot.
The first method is called the Figure of Eight Loop and is used when a piece of equipment is clipped into the loop for example attaching
a rope to an anchor point.
The second method is called the Figure of Eight Knot Rethreaded and is used when the knot to tie into something, for example, a climbing harness.
This is a very versatile knot most commonly used for attaching ropes to anchor points
and to work as your tie-in knot to your harness. Many situations can be dealt with
by fancier knots, but very often a suitable combination of figure of eights will be sufficient.
The Double Fisherman's Knot
Although this knot is used more for construction of equipment than while on the move, it is
also used to join two ends of a rope together.
The Tape Knot
In the days before sewn slings were readily available,
one had to use the Tape Knot to tie two ends of a tape together.
Now it is mainly used in emergency procedures. This knot is then the best way
of securing the sling around an anchor.
The Italian Hitch
We have had the most important knots,
but you would be ill-prepared in an emergency, such as when you drop your belay device
or fall under an overhang and, suspended on the rope, are unable to get back on the rock.
In these cases the Italian Hitch for belaying, abseiling and rigging.
The Clove Hitch
This is one of the most frequently used knots as it is used as an anchor knot, where
its ease of adjustment can be a big advantage over other systems. With a little
practice it can easily be tied with one hand. Note that it is best to use
an HMS carabiner with it, as it then allows the hitch to sit in the right place.
The hitch should sit nearest to the back bar of the karabiner.
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