Know your harnessBefore you buy a harness, it would come in handy to know the different elements of the harness. The basic climbing harness incorporates leg loops and a waist belt connected together to form a seat harness. Other features includes a belay loop, gear loops, adjustable leg loops, rear haul loop, taper and padding.
Belay LoopAn optional feature for harnesses is a belay loop. This sewn loop connecting your waist and leg loops makes clipping into anchors a snap, whether you're anchoring into cold shuts at the top of a sport climb or trying to put your partner on belay while wearing thick mittens. The belay loop is not meant to be used as a tie-in point for your rope (it creates a high center of gravity). Always tie in by threading the rope through both your leg and waist loops. Regardless of what outing you choose, a belay loop is a handy extra that is worth the additional money.Gear LoopsAlmost all harnesses have gear loops in a variety of numbers, sizes, and positions. Ultra-light sport-climbing harnesses have only two gear loops, while a big-wall harness may have as many as eight. Choose a model with enough gear loops to comfortably accommodate your rack, but not so many that they become cumbersome. Big-wall harnesses, for example, sometimes have double-decker gear loops around the waist.While this is handy for carrying lots of gear on an aid climb, it can obstruct a quick grab for gear on a difficult free climb. The number of gear loops you choose depends largely on where you like to carry your gear: if you prefer to use a shoulder sling when lugging a large trad rack, you can get away with only two or three loops. But if you like to keep your gear on your waist, you'll want four. I prefer to have extra loops because even if I'm not using them for carrying gear, I can tie a light jacket through one of the rear loops or clip a water bottle there. Leg LoopsIf you climb under the same conditions every time go for loops without adjustment as you save money and weight. Otherwise get a harness with adjustable leg loops as you can use it on a sunny day and wear it over cushy clothing the next. Choose padded leg loops for everything except mountaineering. Mountaineering harnesses often haven detachable leg loops, a nice feature for those inopportune calls of nature coming when you can't unbuckle the rope on the glacier, and for putting on your harness without removing skis or crampons. The elastic that holds up the back of the leg loops can be detached if the harness has plastic buckles or velcro here. This feature is mandatory for big-wall climbing or when you'll be in the saddle for long periods of time.PaddingThe amount and composition of padding varies widely between harnesses. For summer rock climbing, when you're in skimpy attire, you'll want a padded harness. In winter, however, you can get away with seat-belt material because you'll probably be hanging less and your abundant clothes will act as padding. Rock-climbing harnesses vary from ropes-course models with plain webbing that fit like a trenchcoat to those with diaper-like cushion. Ice-climbing and alpine models generally have no padding in the legs, and may or may not have a padded waist.Over the years, closed-cell foam padding has all but replaced fleece, creating a sleeker, lighter fit. Even some alpine harnesses now use waist-belt padding; the extra comfort and support costs only an ounce or two. Most sport-climbing designs seek to save weight and obstruction by opting for scantily-padded legs and waist, and using narrower webbing. Most trad harnesses have full padding, which give comfort while hanging at belays and carrying heavy racks. In reality, the difference in weight and mobility between sport and trad harnesses is minimal; most trad harnesses are now cut trim enough to be almost unnoticeable when climbing. Haul loopsMany harnesses come with a haul loop, which is a loop of webbing sewn at the back of the waist belt. It is useful for clipping on trail ropes, approach shoes, or chalk bags. Some are runner strength, some aren't, so be wary about how much trust you put on this point.TaperAll harnesses have a slightly different cut, and if the leg loops do not taper correctly to your thighs, even the most expensive models will chafe and hinder your mobility. When you try on a harness, make sure the leg loops taper enough at the inside of your thighs so they don't bunch up or rub your crotch. And look for waist belts that taper at the front so the webbing does not push against your thighs while high stepping.One last comfort tip: Even with a well-padded harness, pants that have bulky inseams along the inside of the legs will slowly dig into your thighs. Similarly, side-zip pants or jackets with low-placed zippers can form divots in your skin and make hanging belays a nightmare. Avoid this unnecessary discomfort by wearing clothing with smooth or no seams at the harness' pressure points.
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