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Rope technique
There are basically three different types of rope each designed and tested to be used for different techniques:
- Single rope
Single rope are the most common type of ropes used and can be used for most conditions. Main advantantage is the simple rope handling. A disadvantage is that only routes up to a half rope length high, with subsequent lowering or rappelling, can be climbed.
- Twin rope
Twin ropes must only be used in pairs and are clipped together into each piece of protection,as with single rope technique. The two ropes offer redundancy and thus, increased safety in the case of shock loading over a sharp edge. They are therefore especially suited for alpine climbing or demanding routes where retreat
may be necessary. They offer the highest safety margin and allow full length rappels.
- Half (double) rope
Half ropes, with regard to strength and weight, lie between single and twin ropes.
They only offer standard safety when they are used as a pair. But here you have the choice between twin rope technique, where both ropes run parallel through the protection and half rope technique, where the "left" and "right" ropes run separately through different protection points. This technique allows friction to be reduced in the case where protection points are widely spread and reduces impact force. This is of benefit when climbing traditionally protected routes. A belay method which enables the independent control of each rope must be used.
Diameter
Rope diameters rang from 7.5 mm to 11 mm. A thicker diameter means a stronger and more durable rope, but it is also heavier.
Here some guidelines to choose your rope:
- In general, you will be on the safe side with a rope diameter between 10 mm and 11 mm. These ropes are appropriate for rock, ice and glacier travel.
- Any ropes with a diameter lower than 9 mm are used in pairs, clipped to separate protection pieces to reduce rope drag on circuitous routes. These ropes should not be used singly!!
- Lightweight, 9mm single ropes are used for simple glacier travel but are too thin for holding falls on vertical rock
Length
Depending on the types of routes you typically climb, choose a rope length. Longer ropes allow longer pitches and rappels. Shorter ropes weigh less and take up less space The standard rope length of 50 metres has been supplanted in many areas with 55 and 60 metres cords, and now, some climbers are stretching it out to 70 metres. A longer rope means more to coil, carry and manage, but the extra utility is often worth it. In some areas a longer rope might allow you to lower or rappel with a single cord, so you can leave the second rope at home.
Strength
The strength of a rope is measured by the rating of static elongation and maximum impact force.
The elongation measures the amount a rope stretches when weighted with a standard load (80 kilograms/176 pounds). Ropes with low static elongation stretch less. Higher static elongation means ropes have more stretch (cushioning the impact of a fall)
Maximum impact force refers to the amount of force transmitted to a climber during a fall. Low maximum impact force means the rope (not the climber or the protection) absorbs more of the energy generated in a fall. However, such ropes stretch more, increasing your chances of hitting the ground or a ledge
Dependent on these two variables a rope can be called semi-static or dynamic. A semi-static rope is a rope with low static elongation and high. impact force. These are designed for caving and canyoning and are also useful in aid climbing. A dynamic rope has a high static elongation and a low impact force and are useful in climbing and mountaineering.
Dry vs Non-Dry
Rope will get wet when ice climbing or mountaineering. Wet ropes are heavier and less able to absorb falls. In addition, the absorbed water can freeze and make a rope weak and unmanageable. Therefore it is important to choose a rope that is dry-treated. These last longer than non-dry ropes and are easier to handle when wet. However, they are not completely waterproof, and treatments do wear off over time. Take care of your dry rope by using wash-in products that are available for re-waterproofing your rope.
Non-dry ropes are less expensive and ideal for use in dry conditions
A Special Thanks To ABCs of Rock Climbing
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