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Rock Climbing


Single Loop Knots



If you need to attach something to a loop of rope, Single Loop Knots can be used for this purpose. With some of these Single Loop Knots, the end of the rope can first be wrapped around an object, such as passing the rope around a person's waist or around a post, before tying the knot. If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use when you need to tie a loop. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one strong knot which you can remember easily. The Alpine Butterfly is recommended for this reason.

The Remaining Breaking Strength of a rope after the particular knot has been tied, is given for each knot outlined here below.

Alpine Butterfly or Lineman's Loop

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 75%
The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots. It is strong, secure, and easily tied. It is generally considered to be about as strong and secure as the Double-Knotted Bowline and the Figure-Eight Loop. The Alpine Butterfly is also considered to be one of the best and most secure single-loop knots that can be tied in the middle of a rope, when you don't have access to the ends of the rope. It can also be tied at the end of a rope using either method shown above, and it is possible to pass the free end of the rope around an object before completing the knot. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know.
If you are tying the Alpine Butterfly at the end of a rope, you can tie a Stopper Knot to the free end of the rope for added security. For an example of a Stopper Knot, see the Bowline below.

How to tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot:
Alpine Butterfly Alpine Butterfly Alpine Butterfly Alpine Butterfly

  1. First give the rope two twists as in the first picture. This creates two loops.
  2. Then bring the upper loop forward and down
  3. Tuck the loop under and up through the other loop Finally dress and set the knot

Bowline

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 67%
The Bowline has been called "the King of Knots" and it is used around the world in one form or another. However, the Bowline is prone to loosening up when there is no load on it (especially in some synthetic ropes), which increases the possibility of it coming undone or distorting. In addition, the breaking strength of this knot as much as 40% (very high, meaning that it reduces the strength of the rope heavily). Nevertheless the bowline can be used for a wide range of jobs, from securing the string before tying a parcel, to outdoor pursuits such as climbing.

How to tie the Bowline:
Bowline Bowline Bowline Bowline

Figure-Eight Loop or Figure-Eight on a Bight or Flemish Loop

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 80%
People who are not comfortable with the basic Bowline often prefer the Figure-Eight Loop. The Figure-Eight Loop is generally considered to be 10-15% stronger than the basic Bowline. This knot is easy to remember how to tie, it is easy to tie, and it is generally considered to be strong and secure. However, this knot has some disadvantages. For one thing, dressing the knot properly is not always a quick thing to do. If the knot is not properly dressed, then it will weaken the rope more than you might realize.

How to tie the Figure-Eight Loop:

Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop

To tie this knot, you simply double the rope and then tie a basic Figure-Eight Knot. In Figure 4, the loop is dressed with a Double Overhand Knot.





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