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Traditional Climbers Gear List
Rack
If you have the basic stuff, like the shoes, a harness, a belay kit and a rope,
here's a list of suggested items to complete a basic but useful climbing rack.
Start off with buying the passive protection. These solid, non-moving nuts and hexes can be wedged in the rock, and stay in exactly the position you put them. These are both the lightest to carry and the cheapest to buy.
Then, your active protection that literally works for you by expanding
and gripping the rock harder when pulled outward, should consist
of a variety of devices fitting cracks from about a half-inch to five inches.
There are lots to choose from in terms of brand and style, so do some reseach.
A typical starter's rack is:
| Slings |
| 6 over-the-shoulder slings of 1.5 cm webbing and a length of 1.20 metres |
Dyneema slings are lighter, less bulky, and easier to knot than nylon slings. However they are a bit more expensive. |
| Quickdraws |
| 6 quickdraws of 15 cm |
15 cm quickdraws are perfect for trad and sport climbing. 10cm are a bit too short for trad climbing and 20cm are a bit long and dangly. Avoid cheap ones with poor gate action. |
| HMS Carabiners |
| 2 HMS Carabiners |
One can be used with the belay device and the other is useful for constructing belays.
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| Screwgate Carabiners |
| 6 Screwgate Carabiners |
These will be used to make belays. When buying carabiners, do note the gate opening. This should either not be too wide and not too narrow. Narrow screwgates are more difficult when clipping in the rope. |
| Wires |
| A set of Wires (1-10) |
For easier handling, the wires should be racked together on 2 snapgates. When buying carabiners, do note the gate opening. This should not be too wide and not too narrow. Narrow screwgates are more difficult when clipping in the rope. |
| Passive Protection |
| 3 Passive Protection e.g. size 5,7,9 on Dyneema |
The slings should be doubled and then clipped onto a snapgate carabiner for easier handling. |
| Camming Devices |
| 2 or 3 Camming Devices (size 1.5 and 2.5 or size 1,2 and 3) |
Go for Camming devices with a flexible stem and high passive strength. Such as Wild Countries Tech Friends or Camalots. |
Eventually you may end up with a full rack that could look like this:
- 3 x Screwgate Carabiners (2400 kg or above)
- 25 - 35 Snap Gate Carabiners (2400 kg or above)
- 10 - 15 Quickdraw slings of different sizes (10, 15 and 30 cm)
- 2 x 4 ft Circumference Slings (20 or 25 mm tape)
- 1 x 8 ft Circumference Sling (20 or 25 mm tape)
- 1 - 2 Complete sets of nuts on wire
- 3 - 6 Pieces of larger protection (i.e. sizes 6, 8 and 10 hexes) and / or Camming Devices (i.e. sizes 1, 2 and 3 friends)
- 2 - 6 Microprotection (specialist use only)
- 2 x Prusik loops
- 1 x Nut key
Remember that an ideal rack is a matter of personal preference and depends on the areas climbed and experience.
Rope
A Trad Climber's Rope is similar to the one of the Sport Climber. Click here for more information.
In addition a dry treated rope would be practical, as you might climb in wet weather conditions.
Harness
Your harness should fit over any sort of clothing you plan on climbing in. Trad climbs involve a lot of scraping around in cracks and chimneys and hanging belays, so avoid lightweight sport harnesses.
You'll want waist loops for racking gear.
Rock Climbing Shoes
The shoes' requirements are similar to the one of the Sport Climber. Click here for more information.
Belay Device and Locking Carabiner
Click here for more information.
Helmet
Buy a dedicated climbing helmet that is either (or both) UIAA or CEN certified.
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